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Here are a couple pictures of a beech tree I collected last spring. I was out on a hunt for a birch or two, but had no luck.
there is either a growth on the right side or a curve on the left side of the trunk right by the soil level.that's why I like it.
Beech grow slow and are easily scarred so This might always be a thin tree with an interesting trunk. who knows.

Hey pinkham

Did you take it out first time or over a season? Do you know a tree/shrub called ice cream rose?

hein wrote: Hey pinkham

Did you take it out first time or over a season? Do you know a tree/shrub called ice cream rose?

Hein,
I don't know what that means.
I collected them this past spring, as the buds were swelling.That's the best time for collecting yamadori.
One thing that still confuses me about yamadori...
I have read that you should keep as much of the original soil when potting it. I have also read that you should bare root them and plant them in fresh soil.
So to be on the safe side,I left the trees in about 50% of their original soil and will bare root it next spring.
I have never heard of an ice cream rose ill look it up though.

Hein,
I now understand. Sorry. I found it and collected it in one day. The tree is small enough that I could get all the roots without any trouble.

Pinkham wrote:

hein wrote: Hey pinkham

Did you take it out first time or over a season?

One thing that still confuses me about yamadori...
I have read that you should keep as much of the original soil when potting it. I have also read that you should bare root them and plant them in fresh soil.

I think here is a good point to toss in a few chips.

As far as I know, Yamadori trees refer to trees collected from 'the wild' who are already mature, and naturally stunted. So the tree discussed in this thread would not be a yamadori, but rather is a seedling/sapling.

Why is this important to note? Because when you read articles on collecting trees from the wild, the amount of soiul to bring, and the time required to let the plant form new hairroots (Which is why you cut around the tree, breaking the main roots, forcing new roots to be formed), the assumption is that older plants are collected.

With older plants you have thick roots, with the fine roots mainly further away from the stem. As such, if you just dig it up, you will loose most oif the hairroots. THerefor you ideally take a spade and cut around the plant once, letting it sit for the next season. The plant then looses some of the main roots, and will struggle. But as you hardly even break all roots (The ones underneath remain), the plant will survive. After the one seasons the you roots created on the surface will now be able to sustain the plant, when the taproots are cut. In this case it is important to not disturb the surface-level roots, which is why you should ta\ke as much soil as possible. Also, quite a few trees have a symbioses (Mutually positive living together relationship) with fungi or bacteria, which help to grab nutrients from the soil. By bringing soil with you, you reduce the risk of loosing the bacteria / fungi.

Bare-rooting the tree I would personlly do only one year later, after the tree has established itself in the new situation.

The reason why I am asking is cause I found an icecream tree in the garden which will make a great bonsai. I dug around the tree and also cut the taproot. I took out the surrounding soil that was left in the hole and filled it up with new fresh soil. I will post a pic of the tree later to show you what tree it is.

Hein my mate has a few of these ice cream bushes in his garden. Its more of a bush hey? He says they look like they will make nice bonsai. Do you think it might be an indiginous species?

thanks Leatherback. It would make sense that you shouldnt bare root a seedling, but would an established tree.
I did know about the relationship between micorhiza and my pine.
Thank you for the info
Lance

this is the icecream rose that I got. I want to do a forest with it

there isn't a picture