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Mineral substrate mixture (structurally stable)

  • Marsianer
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Mineral substrate mixture (structurally stable) was created by Marsianer

Posted 6 days 6 hours ago #85484
I am looking for a mineral substrate mixture that remains structurally stable.
ChatGPT makes the following suggestions:
  • Pumice, lava, zeolite
    • Deciduous trees
      • 40% pumice
      • 30% lava
      • 30% zeolite
    • Conifers
      • 50% pumice
      • 30% lava
      • 20% zeolite
  • Pumice, lava, zeolite, seramis
    • Deciduous trees
      • 30% pumice
      • 30% lava
      • 20% zeolite
      • 20% seramis
    • Conifers
      • 30% pumice
      • 30% lava
      • 20% zeolite
      • 20% seramis
As a bonsai beginner, I have the following questions:
  1. Is it true that seramis has a higher water retention than zeolite?
  2. Are the ChatGPT suggestions useful?
by Marsianer

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  • m5eaygeoff
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Replied by m5eaygeoff on topic Mineral substrate mixture (structurally stable)

Posted 5 days 20 hours ago #85485
All minerals are stable. You need Akadama in there I use Akadama and pumice for all I don't find it necessary to have much difference in the mixes for different species. The requirement for all soils is for them to be free draining. What you quote is only an opinion, I have no idea what Chatgpt is but I would prefer to listen to someone who has trees near where you live to see what they use
by m5eaygeoff

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  • Ivan Mann
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Replied by Ivan Mann on topic Mineral substrate mixture (structurally stable)

Posted 5 days 14 hours ago #85486
When asked about soil mix, just about every experienced bonsai person will tell you the usual mix, followed by a statement,? "...but what I do is ..."

Personally I resist akadama because I hate the idea of paying that much money to ship clay here. I feel even stronger about biogold - there are plenty of chickens right down the road. Importing chicken manure makes no sense, except I can't find a real competitor here.

I watched a Heron video where he prepared soil mix. He took two big handfuls of akadama, two big handfuls of pumice, and two big handfuls of lava rock,? stirred them twice, and proceeded to repot. Suddenly my analytic mentality that wanted exactly one third of each component mixed together to produce exactly uniform mix was out the window.

Here in Alabama with our scorching drying summers most of us add more organic than people in cooler ranier climates. Some use leaf mold, one person grinds up pine bark in a food processor, I use used coffee grinds, some use peat moss, and we all have live trees. The important thing is well drained so the roots don't rot and water retention so the tree doesn't dehydrate. Cost is a minor consideration.?
by Ivan Mann
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  • Tropfrog
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Replied by Tropfrog on topic Mineral substrate mixture (structurally stable)

Posted 5 days 12 hours ago #85487
I am plesant supriced that chat gtp do not mention akadama. Please, can you ask it specifically about akadama. If it is any good?
?
Last Edit:5 days 12 hours ago by Tropfrog
Last edit: 5 days 12 hours ago by Tropfrog.

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  • m5eaygeoff
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Replied by m5eaygeoff on topic Mineral substrate mixture (structurally stable)

Posted 5 days 12 hours ago #85488
Is Akadama any good? It is the best soil by far for use with bonsai. I don't generally use it on its own, mainly with Pumice. It may not be cheap but there is nothing to replace it. The ability to hold water and nutrients and release them to the tree when needed is unique, no other substrate works as well.
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  • Tropfrog
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Replied by Tropfrog on topic Mineral substrate mixture (structurally stable)

Posted 4 days 10 hours ago #85492
LOL!! Lets just say that I don't agree.

I was curious about what chat Gtp would say about it.

I already know what Geoff thinks about it. But it may be infuenced by marketing and own preferences. Chat gtp would give a non biassed answer.
by Tropfrog
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  • Ivan Mann
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Replied by Ivan Mann on topic Mineral substrate mixture (structurally stable)

Posted 3 days 12 hours ago #85496
An issue with akadama in some rainy climates is that if the temps go above and below freezing a lot then the akadama first turns into mud and then hardens into clay. This can be hard to get off the roots when repotting. Around here we have temps doing that from November to March, and the akadama disappears into mud. A hot day in February or March then can harden it, which is hard to handle.?

I think pumice and lava rock do use as good a job of holding moisture, which is akadama's claim to fame.?
by Ivan Mann

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