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lucR wrote: Yes they will, at least mine do, and i know of a few others that have trees that do it too.
What works for my trees: first make sure your tree is healthy and vigorous. Second: decandle the entire tree completely in one session in spring.Mine backbud on older wood after i do that. But: i don't have any expensive trees, i can experiment all i want... so ... proceed at your own risk...

Thanks a lot for your feedback. Really appreciate it.

I dont have any expensive trees either. This one was around 8 eur if i remember correct. However it is a precios tree to me as it was my first start on a long journey.

Whatever I shoose to do, I will proceed on my own risk and will not blame you if I fail.

Thanks again.

Br
Magnus

So, what about the old SAP dried in? Are there any trick to get it off?

And a more General question. I have seen trees that has been injured during summer in the forest. They gave huge SAP runnings all over Them. Can such dried in SAP runnings be part of a design as a feature and still have a chanse of beeing called a bonsai.

Not about my tree, just a curious question

Br
Magnus

i dont like it, but who am i...
To prevent sap from running out, just apply a bit of vaseline ( petroleum jelly), works great!

lucR wrote: i dont like it, but who am i...
To prevent sap from running out, just apply a bit of vaseline ( petroleum jelly), works great!

Thanks! I will have to remember that until next time. But what if it is already sap that has dried in like my case. Any trick to get it off?

Br
Magnus

Not that i know off, well at least nothing that wont kill your tree

lucR wrote: Not that i know off, well at least nothing that wont kill your tree

Yea, the only "thing" that have potential to kill this tree is me )

Br
Magnus

Well.. One suggestion given was to remove it, and work with a smaller branch instead.
Alternative is to take thinner / paint cleaner

leatherback wrote: Well.. One suggestion given was to remove it, and work with a smaller branch instead.
Alternative is to take thinner / paint cleaner

Yea, that makes sence as a solution. One other suggested that chopping the top was the last thing one would do. Unfortunattely, no matter if that is The best advice or not, it is too late .

For now, I will not cut anymore. But of cource consider it for the future, once I understand where this tree wants to take me.

Br
Magnus

So what about the needles? There are posts earlier in this thread that the tree has far too long needles. I complettely agrre on that. What I has been noticing during the time I have had this tree is that the needles have been shorter and shorter every flush or growth that was pinched and remified. I was under the impression that I was on the right track here.

Off cource I can remove all the long needles to make the tree more estetic as of today. However all needles remaining helps to grow the trunk thicker. I do want shorter needles and I do want thicker trunk. So I see this as some sort of dilemma, ok looking now or even better in the future?

What would you do with the needles? Plucking now for instant improvement or leave for improvement in the long run?

And also. Is there any problem that I missed with leaving the old long needles? FEX: Will they affect the sice of new flush needles?

BR
Magnus

Tropfrog wrote: So what about the needles?

I'm not familiar with Mugo pine, only Black and White pines, so I'd look up an in-depth article about Mugo pine training, like this one, which I assume you have already seen:

There are posts earlier in this thread that the tree has far too long needles. I complettely agrre on that.

Sure, but of no concern, really, in this stage.

Off cource I can remove all the long needles to make the tree more estetic as of today. However all needles remaining helps to grow the trunk thicker. I do want shorter needles and I do want thicker trunk. So I see this as some sort of dilemma, ok looking now or even better in the future?

Growth is more important at this stage, so, you're right. Do not remove the needles. It's something for the future.