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I`d say you killed it. sorry

I re-potted my maple in feb, then it got blown over in heavy winds and i had not anchored it. (stupid mistake.) I came out the next morning to find it 1 house down with alot of dirt missing. this was in early april so an important time.

Now 3 weeks latter it is still doing great. They are hard to kill in my experience my neighbor cut one down. It grew back from the stump, he cut again and still the next year it made a come back.

If you decide to give up on it. when you toss it take it out carefully and wash the roots if there are small white ones coming off you can see it did make an effort to live but was too drained.

if the roots are basically the same as you cut with no new ones showing then you can assume it might for any number of reasons have been already dead.
At least you will get an idea if it was you or not.

btw i have no idea if it makes a difference or not since i have never had a plant die from re-pot except pine ( I am good at killing pines)
But i use the bio gold Vital

I soak the roots after trim and rinse in the vital mix (as per instruction) while that happens i get the anchor wiring and bot layer of soil in the pot.

Fill and make sure you get the edges of pot so no air pockets under bonsai or around the pot (stops fungus or any other disease from growing on roots). then once potted use some water to water it then pour the soloution for extra watering.

I`m not a bonsai pro but thats what i do.

leatherback wrote: It is a combination of things. Night length and dropping temperature signal the tree to start autumn routines. Once started, this can for temperate species not really be halted, only slowed, by warmer temperatures.
Once dormant it is the combo of time since going dormant (which stops mid winter growth during a warm.spell) and spring indicators such as temperature that trigger it. It certainly is not purely light druven. Else spring could never be early or late..

I always thought light, I guess night, was the most important factor. We've had extremely cold springs here where I live, and you see maples start budding at freezing temps. Yet you wont see perennials come out, or gardens suffer. I think it is what Auk said, it is pretty complicated. I still think "length of night" is the most important, heavier variable for trees.

Night time strong lights seem to affect the dormancy also.
See below (excerpt from : "How Plants Work: The Science Behind the Amazing Things Plants Do" by
Linda Chalker-Scott
" Woody plants preparing for dormancy can be confused by high-intensity lights, such as those used along streets or in high security areas. The phytochrome perception that summer has been prolonged can delay dormancy to the extent that affected trees and shrubs may not be cold hardy enough to avoid damage of tender tissues by winter freezes."