名媛直播

So, while I'm waiting on my seedlings to grow up (and for anyone who remembers/cares, I have found a foster home for my pine so they are getting plenty of outside time), I bought a Fire Chief Thuja shrub, and am working on that as a beginner bonsai. I have repotted it, cut it back a bit, and wired the many trunks to wind together to form one main trunk. My questions though lay in the soil.

1) Why are plants/trees/shrubs/flowers fine in potting soil, but bonsais need special rocky soil (substrate, lava, pumice, etc)?

2) Normally I water by feeling the soil and if it's not damp or looks dry I give the plant water. This watering technique has been working for me for a few years, with only one or two incidentals. However, it's hard to tell when bonsai soil requires watering because it doesn't really change colour or feel damp. How do you determine when to water, other than on a schedule?

Not much of an expert, but I know the first one:

Trees, shrubs, etc that we use potting soil for usually have a lot more container space than 名媛直播 do. Because 名媛直播 are in tiny pots, it's a lot more important to have good drainage so the roots don't rot, which they will in a tiny container packed with super dense, super moisture-retaining organic soil. And also, we want to encourage our 名媛直播 to grow a dense network of small roots and a good mix with large particles will do just that, as well as keeping the soil nice and aerated.

As for your second question, it depends on what your mix is, but if you use Akadama, it will change color when wet or dry. And I think people do use the classic finger check.

Hey
I’m noob to be an expert, but I like to learn and research..
I agree with the Caterpillar!

Some thoughts..
I heard in a lecture that Akadama knows a thing. It have microscopic tunnels (micropores in a special arrangement?) where really fine roots can grow in.. Unlike fired clay, the bond is weak enough on the soil particles for the roots to break them down while growing.
I don’t remember if the roots splits when entering the particle, or during the particle break down process, but it helps with the root ramification. That’s nice, cause it makes better ramification on the crown of the tree also..

The goal is to get finer and finer root system, to gain more and more useful root surface for the tree to get better water and nutrient intake.
I’ve been told and also experienced is much easier to maintain the root system during repotting if using non organic, grained type soil.
Much less chance for fungal and bacterial diseases, or pests who’s attacking the roots.

I use at least 10 different mixes, ranges from half organic to completely mineral, depending of the nature of the base materials.I try to do this according the species, development stage, pot size, location, and whatever...
Also more control over fertilization with more frequent watering.
All of my soil mixes are changes their color, but it works by weight also.

I’m sure I’ve forgot something..

Trimmer wrote: want to encourage our 名媛直播 to grow a dense network of small roots and a good mix with large particles

I think you got it right, except the above: I do not think the larger particles promote smaller roots. On the contrary.
The large particles however do allow space for air, which is important for the, indeed, dense root mass.

Felidae wrote: I use at least 10 different mixes, ranges from half organic to completely mineral..

Well, in the tropics, where summers are very wet and hot and winters are very dry (and hot!), we need more water retention than in temperate regions.
Which means organics!
Sooo...
I also use many different mixes.
Just yesterday I managed to find and order... Perlite and Peat moss!
So for now it is Akadama, Kanuma, crushed brick, kitten litter, coarse river sand, pine bark+coal, Perlite and peat, and black nursery soil.
Traces of laterite, limestone or vermiculite for special mixes.
NOT ALL TOGETHER!

Auk wrote: The large particles however do allow space for air, which is important for the, indeed, dense root mass.

The air was the important stuff what I’ve forgot... ^^

Clicio wrote: So for now it is Akadama, Kanuma, crushed brick, kitten litter, coarse river sand, pine bark+coal, Perlite and peat, and black nursery soil.
Traces of laterite, limestone or vermiculite for special mixes.
NOT ALL TOGETHER!

Nice... ^^ For me is something like different grains of Akadama & Kanuma, Seramis, Diatomite e. (kitty litter?), scoria and black lava, sphagnum, perlite, peat moss, vermiculite, sand, special acid soil, garden soil and sometimes traces of less identifiable things..
I would like to add Kiryu and something called Green Camel.

Felidae wrote: I would like to add Kiryu and something called Green Camel.

Kiryu is very difficult to find, but good.
Is Green Camel something you can roll up and smoke?

Clicio wrote: Kiryu is very difficult to find, but good.

I’m geographically lucky... : ) I can buy it from the local bonsai nursery in different sizes, but seems more economical to get on my next order from Germany.

Is Green Camel something you can roll up and smoke?

I won’t be that surprised if tomorrow you can buy at Lausanne a CBD stuff with the name Green Camel.. It’s crazy whats happening here..

Actually it’s a soil mix, or more as pellets made from those ingredients.
“Akadama - Japanese clay soil
Lava granulate
Floraton - peat
Volcanic rock flour, sand and mineral additives“
According to the site : )

Mint flavoured, of course!
:woohoo:

Clicio wrote: Mint flavoured, of course!
:woohoo:

Banana strawberry...

No, but really.. I need to experiment with those kind of products : ) Search it pls on bonsai de...